Pastissets de moniato (traditional Christmas sweet potato pastries)

The humble sweet potato is transformed into a lusciously dense filling and baked in semi-circles of short aniseed pastry to make these traditional Christmas treats. I love them.  The quantity of sweet potato here makes enough filling for about 60 pastissets, which sounds like a lot, but you don’t need to make them all at once as the mixture will keep perfectly well in the fridge for weeks. Iaia tends to make batches of 20-25 pastissets every few days over the Christmas period (which lasts until the 6th of January here in Spain), so the pastry recipe here is for about that quantity. Repeat as necessary!

What you need for the filling:filling ingredients
2 kg peeled, cooked white sweet potato
1.125 kg sugar
a long stick of cinnamon
the peel of a large lemon

Making the filling:
Traditionally this recipe calls for 2 hours of stirring a large pot of hot, sugary potato without stopping at all. The risk of it catching and burning is enough to root you to the spot and make you sweat. However, Iaia has discovered that it can be cooked in the oven with only a minimum of stirring and fuss. Which is a jolly good thing. So…oven on to 170ºC.
Your sweet potato should be boiledmash
and then smooshed with a fork while it’s still piping hot so that you get a good, smooth mash. Weigh it mashed to make sure you have 2 kg, then set it aside while you deal with the sugar.
In Spain, we often cook in large, cheap, shallow terracotta bowls which can be set over a flame and in the oven. If you can get your hands on one, do! Otherwise, any shallow, flame and oven-proof dish will do.stirring
Place the sugar in the dish over a gentle flame. Break your cinnamon stick/s into the sugar along with the pieces of lemon peel. Start moving the sugar around with a wooden spoon gently and continuously. The idea is to get the sugar to the point where it is starting to melt without letting it burn at all. You will notice it becomes slightly moist IMG_6727after 10 or 15 minutes of low heat; if you think you need it, sprinkle a few drops of water in to help it along.
At this point, you can take the dish off the heat and start to stir in your mashed sweet potato until you get a smooth, homogenous mixture. This is what you will put in the oven for almost 2 hours or until it has turned a deep golden colour. Check every 20-30 minutes and stir if you see the top becoming a little toasted.
Remove and set aside until you are ready to make the pastry.totty

What you need for the pastry:
1 glass of sugar
1 glass of casalla (dry aniseed liqueur)
1½ glasses of sunflower oil
plain flour (as much as you need to make a short pastry)
Making the pastry and pastissets: IMG_6790
Mix the liquids together and then add flour bit by bit, mixing by hand until you get a nice dough, which is still quite damp, but not sticky. You ought to be able to make lovely smooth little balls of the stuff – roughly 50g of dough per ball. Once you’ve done that, let it sit for a good half an hour before proceeding with the rolling and folding…

Roll each ball out into a circle and place a good spoonful of sweet potato filling onto one side. Fold the dough over the filling to make a semicircle, then use a pastry cutter to tidy the edges. Lay on a baking tray and continue until you have used up all the dough. pastissetsBake for 15-20 minutes at 180ºC or until golden. Take out of the oven and allow to cool completely before scoffing most gloriously. Merry Christmas!IMG_6814

Bunyols (pumpkin doughnuts)

Easter weekend almost always includes buñuelos, or pumpkin doughnuts, for us. Oscar’s auntie Herminia is the resident expert, and it is her hands that you can see doing all the hard work in this recipe.
I am not a huge fan of the little orange balls; without sugar, they are a bit bland and biting into granulated sugar sets my teeth on edge. However, they are a very popular treat here and most certainly part of Iaia’s year in the kitchen!
This recipe made about 90 little doughnuts, which sounds like a barbaric amount, but isn’t, especially when served to a table full of Valencians. Short work was made of these little blobs of pumpkiny, sugary sweetness on Easter Monday.

What you need:ingredients
800g boiled and drained (or roast) pumpkin flesh
about 80g fresh yeast
1 egg
about 750g plain flour
the cooking liquid from the pumpkin (or warm water if you use roast pumpkin)
1½ litres sunflower oil for frying (most of which can be reused later)

What you do:
In a large (really large) bowl or bucket, hand mix the crumbled fresh yeast, pumpkin and beaten egg. Add about 300g of flour and start working it into the orange pulp with energy.  Once the first addition of flour is mixed in, keep adding bit by bit, alternating with small splashes of the cooking liquid until you have used about 750g of flour.mixing1The finished dough is really very soft, so you will end up adding quite a bit of liquid. There is no specific measurement, but the texture before the dough rises is similar to thick mud – the kind that squelches most beautifully between your toes. mixing2 Cover the bowl with a tea towel (Iaia has asked me to point out that hers is from the Australia pavilion at the 1992 Expo Seville, before Oscar had met me) and set it aside for a couple of hours. You will be amazed at how much the mixture rises, all bubbly and spongy with the yeast!leudar

And now comes the complicated bit…

Heat the oil in a large, deep pan. It can’t be too hot, or the doughnuts will burn on the outside and be gluggy in the middle, but it has to be hot enough to fry them quickly, so they don’t come out disgustingly oily. Herminia says that when you drop the test blob in, it should rise immediately to the surface and bubble satisfyingly without spitting. Easy to say – you’ll have to practice a bit to get it right!

To form the doughnuts, grab a fistful of lovely, squishy mix and squeeze it so that a walnut-sized blob spouts from between your thumb and forefinger.  With the two first fingers of your other hand, which you should wet slightly with the leftover cooking water (or any warm water) to avoid sticking, scoop the blob off and immediately plunge the thumb of the scooping hand into the middle of the ball to form the hole.forming nuts As you twist your wrist around, the mixture will threaten to drop off your fingers, but before it does, you will have deftly, and gently, spread your index and ring fingers and drop it into the hot oil. Repeat until the surface of your pan is full of bobbing buñuelos. You will get quicker as you practice.dropping in

Let the doughnuts brown for about 30 seconds before flipping them over. When they are evenly golden, they are ready to be removed from the oil with a slotted spoon and drained on kitchen paper. When draining, make sure you don’t pile them up on top of each other because they will stick and squish.frying

Once you’ve finished cooking (Herminia took about 20 minutes to do the whole batch), serve warm or cooled with a bowl of sugar for everyone to dip into. The cooked doughnuts can also be frozen in single layers and defrosted when needed. Microwave reheating is also possible if, unlike me, you have the technology.eating

Serve with: coffee